French Noblewoman's Gown c. 1505 (continued)

Construction:

Seams:

All seams were sewn by hand in techniques that were common to the time period. Backstitch was used in stress-bearing seams, such as in the bodice. Running stitch was used in the long seams of the skirt. A very long running stitch was used to baste the lining to the interlining. The running stitches were reinforced by using a backstitch every inch or so. For reinforcement or joining two previously finished sections together, an overcast stitch was used. The eyelets were made using an overcast stitch.

Piecing:

The skirt lining had to be pieced in two areas because the cotton brocade and the silk were two different lengths. Tailors often pieced pattern pieces together to make more economical use of the fabric. Although conspicuous consumption was widely practiced, conspicuous waste was not.

Order of Construction:

First, the cotton brocade dress body was assembed, The bodice back pieces were stitched together and the seam allowances were laid flat and stitched into place. This ensured that the seam allowances would not move after the piece had been assembled. (This technique wha used throughout the garment as appropriate.) Next, the cotton back was connected to the front via the shoulder straps.

Next, the interlining and lining were basted together. Then, the interlining/lining pieces were stitched into the bodice back, and stitched at the shoulder. This left both pieces with open sides, so that the skirt back could be attached later.

The lining and the shell were joined at the neckline and then down the front of the gown. As the gown was front-opening, this made the front edge finished and uniform. At this point, the beaded embellishment was added. For the bead spacing, fingers were used as a measuring tool.

The skirt back was next, and the dupioni was basted onto the back skirt panel. The skirt back was knife-pleated to fit the back bodice; the skirt and bodice back were joined with backstitch using 2-ply silk thread. Next, the shell bodice sides were joined, followed by the lining bodice sides. The bodice back lining was then stitched to over the join at the back waist. The gown front finished edges were stitched from the hemline to the opening using a very small overcast stitch. The remainder skirt side lining was pinned and stitched into place using a hem stitch. The sleeve lining and interlining were stitched together, and the "finished" sleeve was inserted into the armscye and stitched into the shell. The lining was then pinned and stitched into place. Eyelets were made using a tailor's awl and then stitched with an overcast stitch. The dress was tried on and the hem was marked. The hemline was then stitched into place.

Conclusion:

The gown provides plenty of growing room in the abdomen. Ideally, there would have been beadwork along the sleeve edge similar to the neckline, but I ran out of time. This dress was completed on August 6, 2006

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Last Updated: July 20, 2007