Ottoman Court Clothing
for TRM Morgan and Livia
by Lady Cecile de Bretigny
Cecile Home Projects Costume
In mid-July, Morgan and Livia asked honored me by asking me to consider making them clothes for September Crown Tourney, an outdoor event. So, we decided upon Ottoman Turkish for the layering ability. This project was completed in September 2007. More pictures of the event can be found here.
TRM Morgan's Ensemble
HRM Morgan's ensemble includes a gomlek (shirt), salwar (pants), entari (undercoat), and kaftan (outercoat). For swiftness of production, I serged the fabric pieces and the garments were constructed by machine.

The
gomlek is the first layer, and it is made of white, handkerchief weight linen. The shirt was an extremely simple design with a round neck. The neckline and wrists were hand-finished.

The salwar were designed based on the salwar examples in the Topkapi Saray Museum with the exception that I elasticized the waist. This was for ease of wear. The event site was primitive, and I did not want any embarrassing costume malfunctions. Due to the temperatures expected at the event, a lightweight red linen blend was used for his salwar
HRM Morgan during morning court
The entari is ankle-length, black, long-sleeved coat with gold/black enamel buttons up the front (fastening from neck to waist). The hem is slit to the knee on the sides. with gold/black woven trim on the wrists and hem. The entari is lined with royal blue cotton.

The ankle-length kaftan is made of black/red chenile is a pattern typical of the time period. The kaftan is short-sleeved with a curved cut-out on the inner elbow for ease of movement. The coat fastens with black frogs. The kaftan is lined in yellow cotton.
HRM Livia's Ensemble
HRM Livia's ensemble includes a gomlek (shirt), salwar (pants), entari (undercoat), and kaftan (outercoat). For swiftness of production, I serged the fabric pieces and the garments were constructed by machine.

The
gomlek is the first layer, and it is made of white, cotton sheer gauze (not the standard wrinkly gauze typically seen). The shirt was an extremely simple design with a v-neck. The neckline and wrists were hand-finished.

The salwar were designed based on the salwar examples in the Topkapi Saray Museum with the exception that I elasticized the waist. This was for ease of wear. The event site was primitive, and I did not want any embarrassing costume malfunctions. Due to the temperatures expected at the event, a lightweight gold/cream/orange striped cotton with hints of silver thread was used.
HRM Livia in morning court
The entari is ankle-length, gold brocade, long-sleeved coat with gold/black enamel buttons up the front (fastening from neck to waist). The entari is trimmed with gold/black woven trim on the neckline, wrists and hem. The entari is lined with white cotton.

The ankle-length kaftan is made of gold/cream/orange chenile is a pattern typical of the time period. The kaftan is short-sleeved with a curved cut-out on the inner elbow for ease of movement. The coat fastens with orange and cream thread-woven buttons. The kaftan is lined in yellow cotton.
HRM Livia's kaftan buttons
HRM Livia's entari and kaftan
Cecile Home Projects Costume
Last Updated: September 2007